Work has been crazy lately, traveling throughout South Texas protecting the rights of people from corporate and government oppression. It’s tough, the hours are long, opposing counsel are as passionate as I am, and the cases emotional.
However, when traveling in this great state there is always a silver lining – BBQ!!!! Whenever I travel I attempt to find a hidden BBQ gem that hasn’t been reviewed before. However, with my fellow Man Uppers and Full Custom Gospel’s seemingly unlimited ability to go anywhere it is getting harder and harder to do. On a recent trip to the Waco area I couldn’t locate a single joint not already reviewed! Luckily, I think I found two places that haven’t yet found their way to either blog, and one place I have passed several times but never stopped at.
Up first - Joe Cotten’s BBQ in Robstown, Texas.

In first impressions Joe Cotten’s struck me as an odd place. Its right off the highway and has a sign you cant miss for miles. The building itself could be any great BBQ place in Lockhart. However, I found myself parking next to a North Carolina Blue Lamborghini. Unfortunately, I couldn’t snap a pic of it, or convince the owner I needed to test drive it.
Upon walking in you are greeted with hospitality that you would expect from South Texas. The tablecloths are red and white checkered – which are exactly like the ones Salt Lick uses to cater most of their events.


Meat wise the plate could be considered small, only one rib, one slice of brisket (couldn’t ask for a certain cut) and one link of sausage. Seeing how this was just lunch, and I still had a three hour trip ahead of me, I didn’t ask for any more. But Joe Cotten's does have a nice little tradition, when it appears you are finished, the waiter simply informs you that if you go home hungry – its your own fault!

Rib: The rib had nice flavor but the texture was a little tough for my liking. Again, I felt as if I had received the rib fresh from the smoker then it would have been much better. 8.0
The sausage: Had a really nice smokey flavor and reminded of the links you get at either Smittys, or any of the places in Elgin. The one draw back was the grease. I know sausage is greasy, but this just seemed to have quite a bit more than usual. Probably because it had time to percolate and wasn’t served fresh off the grill. 7.0
Brisket: I always ask for fatty brisket, or the deckle portion of the cut. I didn’t get a choice this time but my slice was reasonably marbled. The red smoke ring that accompanies brisket after hours of smoking wasn’t as apparent as most places. Probably because the brisket was cooked at too high of a temperature for too short of amount of time. Here is a close up: 8


Not sure if I would recommend a trip to Robstown just for Joe Cotten's, but I assure you with the amount of time I spend in the area it wont be my last lunch there. I will keep it updated and see what happens.
My next trip took me to Galveston to await a trial setting. We were second on the docket, and the case in front of us didn’t settle so Your Honor informed us we would have to come back the next week to begin jury selection. Trial, and even preparing for trial and not actually getting to begin, is a tiring process, unlike any I have ever known. Worn out and dejected I decided the best way to brighten my spirits was to stop at Jerry Mikeskas BBQ along I-10.
Drew hit this place up a while back so its nothing new for Man Up, but it was my first time. Luckily for me Jerry Mikeska himself was there and gladly accepted my proposal to let my boss snap a couple of pics of us:

He also wasn’t afraid to decorate one of the walls in his octagon restaurant with all of the celebrities that had visited:





Ribs: The ribs weren’t bad, just not my favorite. A little tough and not enough falling off the bone. The BBQ flavor came through the more I ate. It didn’t seem like they added much to the rib prior, or during the cooking process. I think a little sauce, or a coat of fresh cracked pepper could go a long way. 8.5
Throughout my entire meal I have a very enjoyable conversation with Mr. MIkeska and his love of BBQ was readily apparent. This restaurant is pretty much the only thing he has ever done and is the only thing he ever will do. People like him are what make Texas BBQ what it is. His outlook reflected a true sense of purpose – that his restaurant was providing the highest quality food it could to the local people. I guarantee Mr. MIkeska doesn’t have to set his alarm clock each night – he just wakes up every day excited to go to work to serve people and do what he loves.
This sign pretty much sums up him, and my experience there:

I only snapped one pic of our plates, and it isn’t that great because of the glare, and my incompetence as a photographer. But she had the turkey plate, and I had the brisket plate, both came with cole slaw and potato salad, with a couple slices of bread, and of course, the Sauce. Yes, I did just capitalize Sauce when referring to the Salt Lick’s.

Not sure how much it has changed, but when I was there we shipped the meat daily from the restaurant in the Hill Country. No ribs though – they don’t travel well, so instead of compromising the quality, it was decided it would be best to just not serve them. All of the sides were made on location at Bergstrom. Now they serve breakfast, which we didn’t do when I was there.
The turkey and brisket we had were both really good. I wouldn’t go so far as to say there were the same quality as the original restaurant, but they were as good as you can get with what you got to work with.
I remember when I was working there the Lick on the fly was a favorite of pilots from Central Texas about to take off for a couple of days. It was also a favorite of visitors to the great state of Texas who had every intention of making it out to the Hill Country on their stay but for some reason couldn’t find the time. As I am sure you can imagine, when we first opened up, it was hard to guesstimate how much food we needed each day. Time and time again we ran out. Countless times I would have just mere scraps of brisket left and people would literally beg for just a taste. I hesitated serving them the leftovers because I didn’t want their one and possibly only experience at the Lick be substandard. However, without fail, their reaction was one of disbelief of how good it was! I think this is truly a testament to Texas BBQ in general – its so much better than everywhere else that even the leftovers work wonders for people! Long before Will Ferrel coined the phrase, I heard it many times, “it just tastes so good once it hits your lips!”
My last review took me back to Galveston, when the trial I previously mentioned actually started. It was the Wednesday of trial and I was working off of pure adrenaline. Our local counsel, Joe Jaworski, is currently running for Mayor of Galveston. He had a campaign event that night at Capital Q BBQ down there in Galveston, close to the bay. So of course, then one thing that could take me away from a trial, would be a chance to try out a new BBQ joint!


As you can see, the place is still under a little construction and had some work to do. But I think as of now it is fully functioning. I was a little disappointed because the menu for the event wasnt their traditional BBQ, but was more of house made appetizers. I got to try some BBQ’d shrimp accompanied with a sort of Swedish meatballs swimming in what tasted like an adapted house BBQ sauce. Because it wasn’t your usual fare I wont spend much time on reviewing the food, but will say that it was quite tasty. It certainly peaked my interest and I will definitely make it back to Capital Q BBQ next time I am in Galveston to try my usual fatty cut brisket and ribs.
The campaign event itself rocked! Quite literally. The entire time a local band played your all time rock favorites:



Like I said, I cant wait to get back to this joint to try the usual BBQ staples. And as if you needed any other reason to come with me, take a look at this view sitting on their porch:

1 comment:
I always enjoy reviews that get farther out than the first one or two rings of barbecue places surrounding Austin.
On I-10 there are a couple of other places that you might try if the timing works out - I used to go between San Antonio and Houston frequently and tried different barbecue joints out for variety. I haven't been recently enough to give a review, so I'll give you the suggestion to try them.
In Sealy, try Hinze's (there is also a location in Hempstead). They have pecan-smoked meats (the flavor is delicate but you can taste it) an enormous variety of exceptional sides and desserts - the tasty sides and desserts aren't there to hide mediocre meat, they are just freshly made and very good. Sealy is so close to Houston that it might take an effort to eat there timing-wise, but I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
In Flatonia, try Joel's. They smoke with mesquite and I have had chicken there where the skin was sweet, crispy, mesquite smoked heaven. Makes me drool to think of it. It is in a log cabin (literally) and you can sit outside or they have wooden benches. They were not as consistent as Hinze's, but I think they are doing it their way and I have to salute that.
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